Does ‘Clean Beauty’ Truly Serve Your Skin?

At NIOD, the focus is not on exclusion but on the thoughtful inclusion of ingredients with proven safety, and efficacy. Here, we examine the limitations of clean beauty products, what this means for your skincare routine, and the importance of moving forward with science-led innovation, as our Lab has done with the new Hydro-Ester Cleaning System (HECS).

Whether it’s a moisturiser, bronzer, deodorant, sunscreen or a haircare product, the term “clean beauty” has touched nearly every category in personal care products. It’s often used to describe products marketed as “free from” certain ingredients, such as parabens or phthalates, or positioned as more “natural.” While widely adopted, the term lacks a universal definition, and its meaning can vary from one clean beauty brand to another.

In other cases, the focus is on highlighting “natural” alternatives, which can sometimes overlap with greenwashing. What is discussed less often are the measures already in place to assess the safety of both natural and synthetic ingredients. As a result, the idea of “clean” can sound simple on the surface but rarely captures the whole picture.

The idea of “clean beauty” may appear straightforward but the reality is often far more complex. Behind the label, several issues influence how skincare products are understood and chosen:

Lack of Regulation and Standardisation: Without shared criteria, the meaning of “clean” varies widely, making it difficult to understand the principles guiding ingredient choice. For consumers, this variation can make comparisons challenging and may blur the distinction between evidence-based formulation and claims shaped primarily for marketing.

Natural vs. Synthetic Debate: Presenting “natural” as always preferable, more effective, or safer can be misleading. Everything is made of chemicals, and “natural” ingredients are chemicals too. What matters is the specific ingredient, its quality, and the dose or concentration used. Many natural substances can be harmful at higher levels, and even everyday materials can become unsafe in excess. Some natural ingredients may also be unstable or cause sensitivity, while lab-created alternatives can provide consistency, reliability, and sometimes greater sustainability. Biotechnology makes it possible to create ingredients with specific functions, consistent quality, and established safety testing protocols.

Dosage of formulation: Another key factor to consider is dose and concentration. Even substances considered life-sustaining, like water, can be unsafe in excessive quantities, leading to serious health imbalances. Conversely, while ingredients like snake venom are natural, they are inherently toxic, illustrating that "natural" does not automatically equal "safe."

Fear-Based Messaging: Avoiding ingredients like preservatives due to perception rather than scientific context can compromise product stability or performance.Preservatives, for example, play an important role in maintaining product integrity by preventing the growth of microorganisms. Microorganisms are everywhere, and they can easily contaminate skincare products, especially those we touch with our fingers or apply directly to the skin, lips, or eyes. While not all microorganisms are harmful, uncontrolled growth or the presence of specific pathogenic bacteria can compromise a product’s shelf life and its effect on skin. Preservatives are excluded on the basis of fear rather than evidence, formulations can be left less stable, less effective, and more vulnerable to degradation over time.

Surface-Level Claims: Focusing on what a product leaves out can distract from the more important question: what ingredients are included and why? Without that context, it’s harder for you to understand the benefits and evidence behind a formula.

Where “clean beauty” is often defined by exclusion, NIOD begins with considered inclusion: placing modernisation at the centre of formulation.

Each formulation is designed with advanced biotechnology and biomimicry in mind, with ingredients assessed for their role in skin biology, their effectiveness in long-term processes, and their established safety. The result is formulations designed not only for immediate performance and long-term optimisation, but also for addressing specific skin concerns with precision.

Modernising skincare, for NIOD, means evolving beyond surface-level claims to meet the realities of the world today. Our newest cleanser Hydro-Ester Cleaning System (HECS), for example, offers a new approach to cleansing. 

Skin is exposed daily to stressors such as pollution, cosmetic build-up, and environmental aggressors, and a cleanser must be able to address these challenges with speed and intelligence. HECS reflects this philosophy with: 

• A dual-approach to cleansing, removing external impurities and makeup in just one minute, and simultaneously supporting skin lipids to fortify the skin’s moisture barrier. 
• An intelligent process results in promoting immediate and lasting improvements in hydration, enhancing skin suppleness. 

By prioritising inclusion over exclusion, NIOD advances the conversation in skincare. The lightweight oil-based system integrates gentle cleansing agents, emollients, and nourishing lipids. It shows that a cleanser can modernise the category while remaining both high-performance, restorative and safe.

Key Technologies in HECS include:

• Methylheptyl Pelargonate: Emulsifies and effectively removes debris and makeup.
• Linoleic / Oleic / Palmitic Triglycerides (Refined Torula Oil): Maintains skin barrier hydration and supports ceramide levels.
• Solanum Lycopersicum (Tomato) Fruit Lipids: Reduces transepidermal water loss, supports moisture barrier, and softens .

In skincare, terms such as “clean” or “free from” can sound reassuring, yet they rarely explain the reasoning behind formulation. When assessing a formulation, a few considerations can help:

• Focus on inclusion: The integrity of a formulation is defined less by what is omitted and more by the evidence supporting what has been intentionally included.
• Consider function: Ingredients are best evaluated based on the role they serve within skin biology, the concentration at which they are used, and their established safety profile.
• Look for transparency: Formulations that communicate their rationale and supporting research offer greater clarity than those built on generalised claims.

Think beyond immediacy: At NIOD, formulations are designed to deliver visible results in the present while supporting long-term skin optimisation.

At NIOD, progress is guided by inclusion, with ingredients considered for their function, safety, and relevance. Through biotechnology and biomimicry, our formulations take a future-facing approach to skincare, created to perform effectively today, support longevity over time, and address specific skin concerns with precision. Explore our new product HECS, or our bestsellers, to learn more about our advanced skincareformulations.