The NIOD Guide to Decongesting Blemish-Prone Skin

This imbalance in the skin can lead to blackheads, whiteheads (comedones), uneven texture, and other blemishes. In this blog we’ll explore the mechanisms that drive congestion and how NIOD Flavanone Mud (FM) helps address them.

Skin congestion refers to the buildup of sebum and dead skin cells inside the pore, which can often develop into blemishes and breakouts. These blockages appear as comedones, which is the technical name for the small raised bumps on the skin. 

Open comedones, or blackheads, occur when the material within the pore oxidizes upon exposure to air. Closed comedones, or whiteheads, remain beneath the surface as small colourless or red bumps. When these comedones cluster in one area, they create the uneven texture and persistent irregularities that can create breakouts.

While congestion refers to the initial blockage within the pore, blemishes develop when this clogged environment progresses into a state of inflammation or becomes affected by bacteria. In other words, the blockage is the foundation, but the visible breakout is the skin’s response to that compromised environment.

In healthy skin, oil production, cell turnover, and the skin’s natural flora work in harmony. When one or more of these processes becomes disrupted, the pore environment becomes more prone to buildup, setting the stage for congestion to form. 

Three primary changes within the skin contribute to the development of congested pores:

1. Excess Sebum Production: Though normally a protective and essential lipid, when there is overproduction, as is common in blemish-prone skin, it creates an oily environment where clogs develop more easily. 
2. Abnormal Cell Shedding: Healthy skin naturally renews and sheds old cells. When dead skin cells accumulate at the pore opening, skin becomes congested forming a compacted plug.
3. Imbalanced Skin Flora: A disruption in the skin’s natural microbial balance can contribute to the development of pimples, especially in combination with excess oil and trapped cells.

NIOD offers a complete approach to skin congestion built around the principles of long-term skin optimisation rather than surface-level solutions. This means targeting the mechanisms that lead to clogged pores while also supporting the skin’s capacity to recover, adapt, and maintain balance. 

This two-step system not only unclogs pores, but optimises overall skin function, leaving blemish-prone skin calmer, more balanced, and resilient over time.

Step 1: Flavanone Mud (FM) serves as the proactive step, a powerful, three-phase rinse-off masque that is designed to visibly target congestion without disrupting the skin. 

Step 2: Modulating Glucosides (MG) follows as the reactive step, a daily serum formulated to soothe visible redness, reduce discomfort, and support blemish-prone skin.

FM serves as the primary treatment step delivering the intensive decongestion required to reset skin that is prone to buildup. As a rinse-off masque, it visibly targets congestion without drying skin. The science behind this three-phase system takes a reactive, and proactive approach to managing and preventing skin congestion:

Phase 1: The Purifying Phase (The De-clog) 

This phase combines sedimentary white clay with Brazilian red and black clays to absorb and remove excess oil, alongside a marine bacteria ferment that aids in the removal of surface pollutants.

Phase 2: The Protective Phase (The Sheild) 

This phase incorporates highly potent antioxidants resveratrol and alpha glucosyl hersperidin (isolated from bitter orange).

Phase 3: The Responsive Phase (Radiance) 

This phase utilises an azelaic acid derivative alongside arginine to promote a healthy-looking, radiant appearance.

FM has been optimised to provide the purifying properties of clay-based masques while minimizing the ‘drying’ effects associated with them through the addition of a lightweight skin-softening ester. 

FM can be used 1-2 times per week. Following the cleansing step of your routine, apply a thin layer of FM to the entire dry face, avoiding the lower and upper eyelids. After 10 minutes, rinse thoroughly with cool water.

Clearing clogged pores is just the first step. Skin that is prone to blemishes, visible redness and sensitivity also benefit from targeted support to remain comfortable and balanced. 

Modulating Glucosides (MG) is a concentrated emulsion to target signs of skin sensitivity, discomfort and irritation. Though it is not a decongestant, It functions as a daily “peacemaker,” designed to support the skin barrier and reduce the look of redness, discomfort, and irritation.

For best results, apply a few drops morning and night after cleansing, and on FM days, after rinsing the masque to maintain a calmer, more balanced complexion.

Congested skin develops when natural renewal, oil flow, and microbial balance fall out of sync, an imbalance that cannot be solved through harsh or stripping methods. Clear, resilient skin requires targeted support. 

Together, Flavanone Mud (FM) and Modulating Glucosides (MG) offer a two-pronged system designed to decongest while preserving comfort and hydration for blemish-prone skin. Together, they form a comprehensive approach for those seeking a smarter, long-term congestion solution. Discover both of these formulations in The Blemish Prone Collection for targeted support against congestion, breakouts, and visible irregularities.