Back to Basics: What are Retinoids

Retinol, Retinal, Granactive Retinoid™. The list goes on. You may have seen one of these or more when looking into retinoids and wondered what the difference was.

Retinoid is an all encompassing term for the molecules that make up the family of vitamin A commonly used in skincare. They are among the most extensively researched ingredients due to their wide-ranging benefits which include targeting uneven texture, tone, and being considered the gold standard for combating signs of aging.

Retinol works very effectively, which is why it’s the best-known topical retinoid in skincare. However, there are several types of retinoids such as retinal, retinyl esters (including retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, and retinyl propionate), and Granactive RetinoidTM (hydroxypinacolone retinoate). All of these are the branches that make up the vitamin A family tree.

Retinoids have two primary benefits: enhancing the skin's renewal process and supporting the skin’s essential structural components responsible for skin firmness.

Our skin has its own renewal process that is responsible for exfoliating the skin and maintaining its smoothness and radiance. This is a process commonly referred to as skin cell turnover. As we grow older, the skin's natural renewal process begins to slow down. Retinoids work by helping support this renewal process which is how it's able to improve skin texture and even the appearance of skin tone. It also helps to visibly improve skin aging and the appearance of dark spots and age spots.

Additionally, changes to the skin’s natural collagen production and elastin content can lead to fine lines and wrinkles, as well as loss of elasticity and firmness. Retinoids target the appearance of signs of aging caused by this loss of structural proteins.

One of the key differences between all those retinoids we mentioned earlier, is the amount of steps it takes to convert them into the bioactive form. Retinoids must undergo conversion inside the skin in order for them to deliver their skin benefits.

Retinol for example, is first converted to retinal before then transforming into the bioactive form. Granactive Retinoid™, on the other hand, is designed for direct use by the skin and doesn't require conversion to become active.

The closer a molecule is to the bioactive form of vitamin A, the more efficiently it's delivered, ensuring effective results - but the more likely it is to be irritating to the skin if you haven’t used retinoids before.

“What age should I start using Retinoids?” is a common question we get asked. While opinions on the ideal age for starting retinoid use may vary, the key is that everyone's skin is unique. That means the right time to begin using retinoids is when it feels right for you. That being said, it's generally not recommended for younger people to use retinoids because their skin is less mature and more prone to irritation from potent active ingredients.

The rate at which the aging process affects your skin can differ based on your genetics and environmental factors, including UV exposure, pollution levels, and lifestyle choices. Consider beginning a retinoid regimen when you want to address signs of aging, as well as texture and uneven skin tone.

Some common aging indicators to watch for include the emergence of fine lines around the eyes and forehead, a decrease in firmness, and an overall dullness or lackluster appearance to the skin.

When it comes to retinoids and pregnancy or breastfeeding, please consult with your doctor about skincare you may wish to use. Retinoids should not be used during this time.

Now that we’ve explained what retinoids are and how they work, how do you choose the right retinoid for you? Selecting the right retinoid for your skin type can indeed be intimidating, but that’s why we have various options available for beginners, intermediates, and advanced retinoid users within The Ordinary.

Retinoid Beginners

For those new to retinoids, we recommend to start with a lower percentage. This way you can gradually build up your skin's tolerance over time. The Ordinary offers a couple of suitable options:

1. Retinol 0.2% in Squalane: This mild retinol serum provides a simple oil-like format. It is in a base of squalane, a moisturizing agent that enhances surface-level hydration and helps combat the dryness that can be associated with retinol use.

2. Granactive Retinoid 2% Emulsion: This is a next-generation retinoid available in an emulsion texture.

Begin by using the skincare product gradually in the evening and remember to apply SPF 30 or above in the mornings to protect your skin from sun damage.

Intermediate Retinoid Users

If you’ve used retinoids before or once you feel your skin has adapted, you can consider moving to a higher strength formula. You could use Retinol 0.5% in Squalane, Retinol 1% in Squalane, or Granactive Retinoid 5% in Squalane.

Advanced Retinoid Users

Advanced users may be interested in one of our Retinal 0.2% Emulsion. This serum is designed to provide efficient delivery of the bioactive form of the Vitamin A molecule that offers skin benefits, with only one conversion step required. It rapidly firms and smooths skin, while noticeably reducing the appearance of dark spots and discoloration.

Remember, it's crucial to choose the retinoid that matches your experience level and gradually increase the strength as your skin becomes more accustomed to it.

Can I use retinoids with sensitive skin?

Even with cautious use and proper hydration, retinoids may not be tolerated by everyone. Users with sensitive skin can explore The Ordinary GF 15% Solution. This age-support serum contains a 15% solution of growth factors to help minimize and repair visible skin damage to regenerate the look of aging skin.

Hydrating your skin daily can help reduce the potential for dry skin or irritation. Incorporate a hyaluronic acid serum into your regimen and seal in the benefits of your retinol products with an effective moisturizer. Of course, always use a broad spectrum sunscreen during the day to protect your skin when using retinoids.

Combining retinoids with certain ingredients can increase the likelihood of skin irritation, especially for those with sensitive skin. These are the conflicting ingredients to be aware of when building your daily skincare regimen.

• Direct Vitamin C: Using retinoids and direct vitamin C at the same time may increase your chances of developing skin sensitivities. We recommend using them on alternate evenings, and waiting until your skin has adjusted to one before introducing another.

• Direct Acids and Copper Peptides: Like retinoids, these two ingredients have the capacity to support the skin’s natural renewal mechanism. Although this helps to remove dead skin cells, incorporating them into one regimen can also increase the likelihood of developing skin irritation. If you’d like to use both products, we recommend alternating days and/or nights.

• Other Retinoids: Combining multiple retinoids in one regimen can increase the chances of overloading the skin and result in skin sensitivities, such as dry skin and redness.

Now that you know the many benefits of retinol and other retinoids in the vitamin A family, you can explore adding them to your regimen to address skin texture, tone, and signs of aging.

When incorporating retinoids into your skincare routine, it's recommended to take a personalized approach. Start with lower percentages and less frequent use, gradually increasing both as your skin becomes more accustomed to the product over time. This gradual adjustment helps maximize the effects of retinol and other retinoids while minimizing the potential for irritation.

If you’re interested in starting your retinoid journey, you can explore our Retinoid portfolio.