Understanding Vitamin C in Skincare: The Science and Your Skin

Vitamin C stands as one of the most extensively researched and widely utilized ingredients in modern skincare, known for its remarkable ability to offer brightening, age and antioxidant support. At The Ordinary, we offer both direct and derivative forms of vitamin C, making this potent ingredient accessible across different skin types and concerns.

The Science Behind Vitamin C

Vitamin C's efficacy in skincare stems from two primary mechanisms. These fundamental functions explain why vitamin C has become indispensable in individuals seeking solutions to their skincare needs:

  • Powerful antioxidant protection: Vitamin C protects against environmental stressors from sources like pollution, that can lead to signs of aging and dullness.
  • Brightening effects: Vitamin C helps reduce the appearance of uneven tone, discolouration, and dullness, resulting in a more even-looking skin tone.

Vitamin C skincare formulations come in two distinct categories: direct vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid) and vitamin C derivatives. Choosing the right vitamin C format for your skin type and experience level helps ensure optimal benefits while minimizing potential irritation, ultimately affecting both your skincare results and product longevity.

The Ordinary bottle with a peel inserted in

Direct Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid)

Rolled orange peel

L-Ascorbic Acid is among the most potent and scientifically-validated forms of vitamin C. However, its high efficacy comes with specific formulation challenges, particularly its instability in the presence of water and oxygen. This is why our direct vitamin C formulations are water-free.

We offer two products with direct vitamin C: Vitamin C 23% Suspension + HA Spheres 2% is a water-free, high-concentration suspension that offers effective brightening. 100% L-Ascorbic Acid Powder is a customizable vitamin C powder that can be mixed with other formulations for powerful, targeted results. Both formulations may cause tingling for some users.

It’s important to note that direct vitamin C is best for experienced users looking for noticeable results in reducing the look of uneven tone and dullness, but it may not be ideal for sensitive skin.

Here is a simplified overview of the two to help you understand the differences, although both are effective solutions for brightening:

Person applying Vitamin C Suspension 23% + HA Spheres 2% to face

Vitamin C Suspension 23% + HA Spheres 2%

  • Concentration: 23% L-Ascorbic Acid
  • Format: Water-free suspension
  • Something to note: May cause temporary tingling sensation
  • Best for: Users seeking significant brightening results

Person applying 100% L-Ascorbic Acid Powder to face
The Ordinary 100% L-Ascorbic Acid Powder

100% L-Ascorbic Acid Powder

  • Concentration: Pure L-Ascorbic Acid
  • Format: Powder
  • Something to note: Allows for customizable concentration and layering with other treatments
  • Best for: Advanced users wanting precise control

Vitamin C Derivatives

Orange peel being inserted into tube

Vitamin C derivatives, such as ascorbyl glucoside and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, are more stable and gentler alternatives to L-Ascorbic Acid. They convert to vitamin C on the skin, offering similar benefits while being more suited to sensitive skin or new users.

We offer two formulations as derivatives of vitamin C:

Ascorbyl Glucoside Solution 12% is a water-based, stable derivative suitable for beginners or those looking for a gentler alternative to direct vitamin C and provides brightening benefits.

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate Solution 20% in Vitamin F is an oil-soluble vitamin C derivative that is ideal for dry skin types and combines vitamin C benefits with added hydration from vitamin F.

Person with Ascorbyl Glucoside Solution 12% applied to skin
Ascorbyl Glucoside Solution 12%

Ascorbyl Glucoside Solution 12%

  • Format: Water-based solution
  • Something to note: Enhanced stability
  • Best for: Beginners or sensitive skin
  • Benefits: Gradual brightening

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate Solution 20% in Vitamin F

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate Solution 20% in Vitamin F

  • Format: Oil-soluble solution
  • Something to note: Enhanced penetration and hydration
  • Best for: Dry or mature skin
  • Benefits: Combined brightening and moisturizing effects

How to Layer Vitamin C in Your Regimen

Vitamin C offers flexibility in application timing—it can be effectively used in either your morning or evening skincare routine. When applying vitamin C in the morning, always follow with a broad-spectrum sunscreen to help protect skin and prevent UV damage. Some may also prefer to use Vitamin C Suspension 23% + HA Spheres 2% or Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate Solution 20% in Vitamin F at nighttime due to their oilier texture.

For those new to vitamin C skincare, we recommend starting with lower concentrations and gradually increasing strength as your skin builds tolerance.

When incorporating vitamin C into your routine, certain ingredient combinations require careful consideration. Direct vitamin C should not be used simultaneously with niacinamide, as this can compromise the stability and efficacy of both ingredients.

Similarly, avoid using direct vitamin C alongside direct acids or strong retinoids, as this combination may lead to increased sensitivity or irritation. If you wish to use these ingredients in the same skincare routine, allow sufficient time between applications. For example, you might use vitamin C in the morning and retinoids in the evening.

How to Use Vitamin C Effectively

  • AM or PM application is acceptable
  • When used in AM, follow with broad-spectrum sunscreen
  • Start with lower concentrations if new to vitamin C

Key Ingredient Interactions

  • Avoid combining direct vitamin C with:
    • Niacinamide (in the same application)
    • Direct acids
    • Strong retinoids

For Different Experience Levels:

Beginners: Start with Ascorbyl Glucoside Solution 12% for a gentle introduction to vitamin C benefits.

Intermediate Users: Progress to Vitamin C Suspension 23% + HA Spheres 2% for more direct-acting results.

Advanced Users: Consider 100% L-Ascorbic Acid Powder for customizable options.

A Long-Term Approach

Consistency is key with vitamin C usage. Results typically become visible with continued use. Our range of formulations allows for a scientific approach to finding your ideal vitamin C solution, whether you're seeking powerful direct forms or gentler derivatives.

Remember that skincare is very personal, and what works effectively for one person may not suit another. We encourage exploring different formulations within our range to find what works best for you. For tailored recommendations based on your specific concerns, try our Regimen Builder.

Adding vitamin C and other ingredients to your regimen starts here. Learn more with expert insights, new formulations, and tutorials—sign up for our newsletter to support your skincare journey.

The Ordinary Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate Solution 20% in Vitamin F
23.60 EUR
The Ordinary 100% L-Ascorbic Acid Powder
7.60 EUR
49.80 EUR
Extra 10% Off
null The Vitamin C & A Collection
42.40 EUR
The Ordinary Vitamin C Suspension 23% + HA Spheres 2%
9.30 EUR
The Ordinary Ascorbyl Glucoside Solution 12%
17.00 EUR
The Ordinary Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate Solution 20% in Vitamin F
23.60 EUR
The Ordinary 100% L-Ascorbic Acid Powder
7.60 EUR
49.80 EUR
Extra 10% Off
null The Vitamin C & A Collection
42.40 EUR
The Ordinary Vitamin C Suspension 23% + HA Spheres 2%
9.30 EUR
The Ordinary Ascorbyl Glucoside Solution 12%
17.00 EUR
The Ordinary Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate Solution 20% in Vitamin F
23.60 EUR
The Ordinary 100% L-Ascorbic Acid Powder
7.60 EUR