Your Comprehensive Guide to Using Retinoids

Retinoids are a very well-studied group of ingredients. They have been shown to target multiple skin concerns. They belong to the vitamin A family and while many forms of vitamin A are found in nature, retinoids in skin care are synthetic molecules which are used for their ability to target the look of multiple skin concerns that commonly appear over time, as skin ages. Over time and with exposure to environmental stressors, skin loses collagen and elastin and shows signs of damage in the form of uneven texture and tone, dullness, fine lines and wrinkles and loss of elasticity and firmness. Retinoids support skin and help counteract these visible signs of aging, to help make skin firmer, smoothing out the look of wrinkles, and correcting uneven skin tone. Think of them as the golden standard when it comes to targeting skin concerns that appear over time/as skin ages. Let’s take a look at retinoids and why they are so important in the world of skincare.

Retinoids work to target the appearance of skin concerns associated with collagen loss and cell turnover. Collagen is a protein essential to skin’s youthful structure and breaks down as you age, resulting in signs of aging, such as wrinkled skin. Cell turnover is the natural process through which your skin exfoliates dead skin cells and replaces it with new ones. Both are key in promoting a smoother skin texture, diminishing the appearance of uneven skin tone and fine lines and wrinkles. As a result of decreased collagen loss and cell turnover, you may experience lines and wrinkles, or textural irregularities. Retinoids come into play to help target the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, uneven skin tone, lack of elasticity and “firmness”, and dullness.

Retinoid is an overarching term for a group of chemicals derived from vitamin A. Let’s review three different types of retinoids: retinol, Granactive Retinoid™, and retinaldehyde (also known as “retinal”).

Retinol is the most commonly used form of vitamin A in skincare, and one of the most well-studied. It is two conversion steps away from the most direct form of vitamin A.

Granactive Retinoid (also known by its chemical name hydroxypinacolone retinoate) is a next-generation, newer retinoid that provides similar benefits to those of other retinoids, without requiring conversion on skin.

Retinal is a well-studied ingredient that is one conversion step away from the most direct form of vitamin A. Of all three, this is the strongest and most potent.

One of the key differences between these retinoids is the amount of steps it takes to convert them into the bioactive form. Most retinoids must undergo conversion in order for them to deliver their skin benefits. The right retinol product and choosing retinoids varies based on individual needs and skin tolerance. Learn more through Back to Basics: What are Retinoids.

The ideal time to start using retinoids in your skincare routine largely depends on individual skin concerns and age. Generally, retinoids come into play when signs of aging, such as fine lines, uneven skin texture, or discolouration, begin to emerge—typically in your late twenties or early thirties.

Starting with a lower concentration and gradually increasing can help your skin adapt. Also, an introduction to retinoid skincare is key in timing and usage. Before introducing any new skincare products into your regimen, including The Ordinary, patch testing is always recommended. Patch testing can be a way to help ensure that your skin is compatible with the new products before fully incorporating them into your routine. Check out our step-by-step guide on how to perform a patch test. In order to reduce irritation of retinoids like dryness, redness, or peeling, you can choose to start by using them sparingly, maybe a couple of times a week, and gradually increase frequency as your skin adjusts. Also, it’s key to always use sunscreen during the day as retinoids can increase skin sensitivity to the sun.

While our retinoids can safely be used daily, every individual’s skin is different, and some may prefer to use a new concentration less frequently to begin with. Similarly, experienced retinoid users may wish to begin their O. retinoid journey with a high-strength formulation.

While using retinoids, certain combinations with other ingredients can increase the likelihood of irritation and sensitivity.

The conflicts for our retinoid formulations are as follows:

• Direct Acids and Copper Peptides: As both retinoids and direct acids or copper peptides have the capacity to support the skin’s natural exfoliating mechanism, combining both into one regimen may increase the chances of developing skin sensitivities. If you wish to combine both products into a regimen, we recommend using them on alternate days and/or nights.


• Direct Vitamin C: With skin tolerance in mind, we do not recommend combining retinoids with Direct Vitamin C (LAA) as this may increase the chances of developing skin sensitivities. If you wish to incorporate both into a regimen, we suggest using them on alternate evenings and waiting until your skin has adjusted to one before introducing another.


• Copper Peptides: As both retinoids and copper peptides have the capacity to support the skin’s natural exfoliating mechanism, combining both into one regimen may increase the chances of developing skin sensitivities. If you wish to combine both products into a regimen, we recommend using them on alternate days and/nights.


• Other Retinoids: Retinoids have the capacity to support the skin's natural exfoliating mechanisms. As such, we do not recommend combining multiple retinoids in one regimen, as this may increase the chances of over-exfoliating the skin and developing skin sensitivities.

A side note: When it comes to retinoids and pregnancy or breastfeeding, please consult with your doctor about skincare you may wish to use.

If choosing to incorporate a retinoid into your skincare regimen, it will be added to your PM or nighttime regimen. Our Retinoids are part of the Treat step. They should be applied after cleansing and any water-based serums such as Soothing & Barrier Support Serum. This is true for all of our Retinoids whether they’re in Squalane or an Emulsion format.

After applying your retinoid, you can finish your regimen by applying an oil or a moisturizer of your choice. Be sure to use sun protection during the day.

So now that we’ve covered more about retinoids, how they work, and some key regimen tips, how do you choose the right retinoid for you and your skin concern? Again, pairing retinoids in a skincare regimen starts by gradually incorporating by strength, depending if you’re a beginner, intermediate, or an advanced user of retinoids.

In order to target the following concerns, we recommend the following pairings:

• Beginning Signs of Aging - Retinoids for early signs of aging include Retinol 0.2% in Squalane. This option provides the well-studied retinol in a simple oil format. Granactive Retinoid 2% Emulsion: These are next-generation retinoids available in two textures. Combine with Multi-Peptide + HA Serum, an age-supporting peptide serum that does a little bit of everything for your skin and Caffeine Solution 5% + EGCG, a water-based serum that reduces the look of puffiness and dark circles in the eye contour.


• Advanced Signs of Aging - Retinoids for mature skin include Granactive Retinoid 5% in Squalane, or Retinol 1% in Squalane for intermediate users or the new Retinal 0.2% Emulsion for advanced users. Pair with Multi-Peptide + HA Serum, and Multi-Peptide Eye Serum, a multi-technology peptide eye serum to target signs of aging around the eye.


• Texture + Uneven Skin Tone - To use retinoids for skin texture and tone, we recommend pairing with Glycolic Acid 7% Exfoliating Toner and the Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%. The Glycolic Acid 7% Exfoliating Toner (previously Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution) exfoliates skin surface to improve the look of skin texture, while the Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% improves skin smoothness and brightness.

Knowing how retinoids work, when to use them, and what to avoid is important for getting the best results with minimal side effects. To make the most of retinoids in your skincare routine, it's important to introduce them gradually and be consistent. If you're unsure, talking to a skincare expert can give you personalized advice based on your unique needs and concerns.