Dry and Flaky Lips: What’s Behind Them

You’ve tried every balm within reach, but your lips are still dry, flaky, and tight.

Dry lips happen to almost everyone, and there’s rarely just one reason why. The skin on your lips is different—it doesn’t produce oil, has a thinner barrier than the rest of your face, and is exposed to everything from cold air to heat to whatever you just ate. It's doing a lot, with less built-in protection.

This combination may make the lips more reactive. Not just to the products you use, but also to daily habits and external conditions. Understanding what’s drying them out is the first step to keeping them comfortable.

Without the protective support found elsewhere on the skin, the lips can lose moisture more easily and react more visibly to external stressors.

While weather often gets the blame, dryness is usually the result of multiple overlapping factors. Many of them come from everyday habits.

• Weather exposure: Humidity changes, strong wind, and sun can all contribute to moisture loss. Even in mild climates, lips can feel dry, tight, or irritated when the barrier is compromised.
  
  
• Lip licking: It might feel soothing in the moment, but saliva evaporates quickly and can pull moisture out with it. Over time, and coupled with enzymes and other irritating molecules found in your saliva, this habit can leave lips more vulnerable to dryness and sensitivity.
  
  
• Fragranced or mentholated balms: Ingredients like menthol, camphor, or certain fragrances can create a cooling or tingling sensation. While they may feel refreshing, frequent use may lead to irritation, especially on already dry lips.
  
  
• Dehydration or nutritional factors: Limited water intake or low levels of certain nutrients, such as certain B vitamins or essential fatty acids, may influence how the lips retain moisture or respond to external changes.
  
  
• Irritating skincare or toothpaste: Strong actives, foaming agents, or flavouring ingredients in nearby products can come into contact with the lips, especially around the mouth, and contribute to a feeling of dryness or discomfort.
  

Noticing what’s actually causing the dryness is a good place to start. It makes it easier to choose products that support the way lips are built, instead of working against them.

Persistent dryness often leads to persistent application. But more balm doesn’t always mean better, especially when the formula includes ingredients that prioritise immediate feel over long-term support.

Some components commonly found in lip care, if overused, can contribute to a cycle of temporary comfort followed by renewed discomfort:

• Menthol and camphor: These create a cooling or tingling effect that can feel satisfying at first. But with frequent use, especially on dry or sensitive lips, they can sometimes leave things feeling more uncomfortable.
• Lanolin: A naturally derived emollient known for its softening properties. However, depending on the refinement and individual skin sensitivity, lanolin can cause irritation or reactivity, especially when applied frequently or layered heavily.
• Fragrances and flavourings: Often added to enhance user experience, these ingredients can disrupt the already minimal barrier of the lips. Repeated exposure can lead to visible dryness or surface discomfort.
  
  

Effective lip care begins with understanding function: the ability of each ingredient to support hydration, texture, and barrier integrity.

• Humectants (e.g. glycerin, hyaluronic acid): These water-attracting molecules help draw and retain moisture within the upper layers of the skin. In lip care, they act as a foundational step by rehydrating the surface and creating the conditions for improved comfort.
  
  
• Emollients (e.g. squalane, shea butter): Emollients step in to smooth things over. They fill in surface gaps, soften texture, and bring a more comfortable feel. Squalane offers a light, barely-there finish, while shea butter delivers something richer and more cocooning.
• Occlusives (e.g. petrolatum): These ingredients form a breathable, protective layer over the lips to help reduce transepidermal water loss. When layered over humectants and emollients, they help preserve hydration.

What’s best for flaky lips isn’t a single ingredient. It’s about combining the right functions in the right order. Hydrate first, soften second, and seal last. This layered approach helps support the lips’ natural barrier and can reduce the need for constant reapplication.

Dry, uncomfortable lips often need more structure. A consistent routine built around Prep, Treat, Seal helps support hydration, improve texture, and reduce the need for constant reapplication. Here’s how to help flaky lips:

Prep: Support the Surface

Begin by cleansing the lips gently with lukewarm water. Avoid surfactants, foaming agents, or harsh cleansers. If exfoliation is needed, do so sparingly and only when the lips are intact.

• Use a soft, damp cloth to lift visible flakes, and avoid physical scrubs.
  
  
• For a gentle chemical option, help smooth the surface texture using a mild polyhydroxy acid suitable for the lip area.

Treat: Reintroduce Hydration

Apply a hydrating layer to draw water into the lips and support surface suppleness. Our Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 (Original Formulation) hydrates and plumps the lips while working to strengthen the skin barrier.

Seal: Lock It Moisture

Finish with a layer that combines emollient and occlusive function to help soften the lips and reduce moisture loss. The Ordinary Squalane + Amino Acids Lip Balm delivers both barrier support and long-lasting comfort through a blend of plant-derived squalane and amino acids in a balm base.

Dry lips can lead to a cycle of frequent reapplication that doesn’t always feel effective. Sometimes the solution isn’t using more product, but changing the approach. That could mean looking more closely at what’s being used, how often, and how the lips respond.

A simple, consistent routine with a few intentional steps may offer a more supportive way forward, without relying on quick fixes or overcorrecting.